Luapula

Luapula is one of three provinces that make up northern Zambia. Sometimes collectively referred to as the Northern [Tourism] Circuit, Luapula, Muchinga and Northern provinces have a concentration of tourist attractions. Luapula has, among other attractions, lakes, white sand beaches, a number of waterfalls, a hotspring, national parks and wetlands that are rich in wildlife and birdlife (indigenous and migrants) including the Black Lechwe (can be seen in their thousands at a time) and the rare Shoebill Stork. It also has a wealth of history and culture, including traditional ceremonies, prominent among them the Umutomboko held annually at Mwansabombwe. 

Sunset on Lake Bangweulu, Samfya. Bangweulu, which means 'the place where the water meets the sky', lives up to its name as the lake does seem to blend into the sky at the horizon. Apart from the lake, Bangweulu is also made up of swamps, floodplains, lagoons and islands (Chilubi, Cishi, Mbabala and Mucinshi). It is so expansive that a boat ride leaves you with no sight of anything but water and sky.

Fishing is one of the main (seasonal) activities on Lake Bangweulu and an economic mainstay for many households. Some of the best known species are the bream, yellow belly, catfish and tiger fish. Both tourists and locals frequent the lake and beach for a variety of activities. Samfya.

Boat ride on Lake Bangweulu, heading from the beach to the harbour. Samfya has lovely white sand beaches and a number of waterfront lodges. It is advisable to carry sunscreen and mosquito repellent.

The Post Boat, also known locally as ichombo, is an old and popular form of transport on Lake Bangweulu. Samfya harbour.

Ntumbacushi is on the Ngona river in Kawambwa about 250 km from Samfya. Ntumbacushi means 'smoke mountain' and at a distance, the mist looks like smoke pouring out of a mountain top. You can go as close as you like but must contend with the wind and slippery ground. You can camp here, hike, braai or bring a picnic basket on a day trip. Like other national heritage sites, it has an entry fee.

Another viewing point of Ntumbacushi falls across the bridge. You must be prepared to get drenched (falls, river and rain depending on the season you visit) as you get this close-up view. We were so cold after this and had to stand by the local shop's braai but there was barely any fire. Next time I will be sure to pack a change of clothes.

                                             Samfya harbour before returning to the beach

Further up on this route, about 310 km from Samfya and 60 km from Kawambwa 'CBD', is the Lumangwe falls at the border of Kawambwa and Mporokoso. It looks like a smaller version of the Victoria falls but has, in my opinion, a more striking presence probably because of how close you can get and the suddenness of the sight in what seems like the middle of nowehere.

Lumangwe is within 5 km of Kabwelume falls (one entry fee for both) and sits in a lush mini rain forest. There are budget lodging facilities and you can also camp here. The road is currently bad but the destination is definitely worth the drive. You can see the video here http://eyesajar.blogspot.com/2016/07/water-spectacularzambia.html

Lower viewing point where you see the falls plunge and mist rise. Lumangwe is on the Kalungwishi river which forms the eastern boundary of the Lusenga Plain National Park, another attraction.

                                                            Sunset at Lumangwe

                                                              Lumangwe falls

                                                  Footprints in the sand. Samfya beach.


*I will keep updating this post as I see more of Luapula.                                                                   You can see more pictures and videos from around Zambia here http://eyesajar.blogspot.com/2016/07/water-spectacularzambia.html #SpectacularZambia

Gorée

The Island of Gorée was the largest slave trading centre on the African coast from the 15th to the 19th century. The island is off the coast of Senegal and accessible by ferry from Dakar. Gorée was controlled, in succession, by different slave traders namely the Portuguese, Dutch, English and French.
It is now a UNESCO heritage site and the House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves), one of its buildings, a museum and memorial to the tragedy that was the slave trade. It is necessary to mention that there is ongoing controversy around some historical facts about Gorée island and its place in the slave trade.

                                                            Presbytere De Gorée

The House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves) is a significant monument that has attracted visitors from all over the world including notable ones like Nelson Mandela, Pope John Paul II and Barack Obama, among others. Now a museum, there is controversy regarding the number of slaves that were held here for export. There may be no unanimous figures but the museum still stands as an emotional  memorial to the millions who either died on the way to Gorée, in the dungeons of this house, on the way to the Americas or survived and endured their cruel fate.  

The House of Slaves was the place where I most felt the reality and weight of Gorée's past. The sunny courtyard and bright exterior are a sharp contrast to the interior and the dark history it holds. The dark narrow corridor, dingy dungeons, iron shackles, labels ("Jeune filles" "Recalcitrants" etc) the door of no return and overall grim air capture the island's painful history in a sobering way.

"If all the sky were paper and all the seas ink, I would not be able to describe the brutality of the slave trade" - W. Bosman, 1701

                                                 Approaching Gorée from Dakar

The Door of No Return, located in the House of Slaves and looking out to the Atlantic, was the final exit point for captive Africans exported as slaves. The door represented a forced and brutal final separation from home and loved ones, and passage to a harrowing voyage and fate. It has been claimed that millions of women, men and children were forced through this door, marking their last contact with their homeland. 

Gorée Rue Saint Germain. There are many buildings and streets on the island but no cars.

This statue is one of the landmarks on the island.

On the ferry to Gorée